Leica IIc

Santa Clauss brought me a Leica? Wow, thanx Santa. When the box arrived i just couldn't hide my excitement. I was pacing up and down, trying to find on the internet how to load correctly a roll of film and start shooting.
My IIc was produced in the distant 1950. It comes equipped with the Elmar 50 f/3.5 made in 1952. It is in near mint condition, the shutter is accurate and all the controls are smooth. The only problem was a bit of fungus on shutter curtain which required some surgical spirit to clean it. I really like the IIc, it is small, extremely well made and the shutter has the best sound i've ever heard.

Of course there are some shortfalls. First of all, separate viewfinder and rangefinder. Takes time to get used to it (especially if you are spoiled by using a later rangefinder from the '60s (errr... Ricoh) ) but the truth is that it doesn't bother me as i use fast films and i zone focus. Another thing is that you have to select the shutter speed AFTER you have cocked the shutter otherwise you risk damaging the shutter spring. Also, the speed dial is rotating during exposure which is not very ergonomic, especially if you are wearing gloves. Finally, loading the film is a pain. You have to remove the base, put the canister in one side and engage the film in the spool. Then push!!!. Hopefully it has gone far enough. Just to be on the safe side, select "B" and fire the shutter with no lens one. Check if the film is correctly put, otherwise push it with your finger. Sounds nasty? Then buy the special tool that helps you trim the film leader. I think it is called ABLON. Check here for more info.
The Elmar 50 f/3.5 is a Tessar design with 4 elements in 3 groups. It is a later version, with single coating and stops down to f/22. The earlier ones went up to f/18. It is quite sharp, as sharp maybe as the Yashica T4's but i have the feeling that the Rikenon is sharper. This means nothing of course, the Elmar has it's own signature, especially its low contrast and bokeh (pic1, pic2, pic3).

The IIc model is the lower class one, its speed reach up to 1/500 (as opposed to 1/1000 on the IIIc model) and there is no separate speed dial for the slow speeds. This can be a plus too, less things to break. The biggest difference between the IIc and the IIb model is the top chassis. In the IIc it was replaced with one solid piece, rather than the previous one which was made by 3 parts (i think). This adds to its robustness.

Conclusion:
The Leica IIc is the jewel in my photographic-equipment crown. There are some ergonomic issues which were all solved in the later M models but the building quality is well beyond any criticism. This is the camera that i will pass on to my kids after i die - if there are still films available.
The Leica is a solid tool that produces excellent pictures with its own signature.
Read more

Yashica 200-AF

Have I ever mentioned about the legendary third issue of the 1989 Φωτογράφος (Photographer) magazine ? It was a camera-porn galore, forty cameras within four pages, it was the issue that inspired all this love for cameras. It included cameras such as Contax RTS and 164, Canon F1, EOS 1, EOS 650, Minolta 9000 and 7000i, Nikon F801, Nikon F4, Leica R6 etc.. etc... The Yashica 200-AF was the cheapest AF-SLR in that issue and although way out of my budget, I thought that if i ever buy an AF camera, it would probably be this one.
Yashica was a wealthy company back in the mid-60's. It became popular with camera lines such as the Lynx's or the Electros. Yashica was probably the camera your father or grandfather had when they were young. In the early 70's, Yashica began collaborating with Contax, with yashica focusing on the production of the affordable line of cameras and Contax producing the Hi-end and more expensive ones. Things were going OK until the late 70's where sales started dropping for Yashica which was facing strong competition from the Minoltas, Nikons and Canons. In 1983 Yashica started running into financial problems and was acquired by Kyocera. It was business as usual until 1985 when Minolta released the historic 7000 and changed the history of SLR concept. Nikon followed closely with it's F-501 and in 1987 Minolta was releasing it's second generation of AF cameras together with Nikon while Canon was releasing the EOS series. It took Yashica 2 years to come up with a AF camera, the 200-AF, and unfortunately there was nothing new about it. According to this webpage the 200-AF is a scaled down copy of the Minolta 7000 - and i quite believe it actually. Yashica instead of waiting a bit and see how the second generation of AF cameras will perform, decided to copy a camera that was already starting to show it's age. Later that year, Yashica released the 230AF, another copy of the Minolta 7000 with improved AF and more functions which was probably Yashica's best selling AF-SLR but still, it looked and performed much like a 7000. In 1991 Yashica produced the 270-AF which was a 230-AF with Canon clothes and by 1993, when Yashica released the 300-AF it was obvious that it couldn't compete with the likes of the EOS models and the Nikons/Dynaxes. Yashicas AF-SLR's went off production soon after that.

So, the 200AF was Yashica's first AF camera and to tell you the truth, it is quite obvious. It has all those teething problems of that bygone age, mainly a lot of hunting, inability to focus in low light and noisy AF motor. In bright light, it focuses fairly quickly, probably assisted by the lens's short throw but in low light things get frustrating. Here is a picture I took with the EOS 10D.


 It says ISO 100 and shutter 1/100 with f: 2.8. That is plenty of light. The canon took the shot instantly. It took the Yashica more than 5 seconds by the time I pressed the button to focus and take the picture. More than 5 secs. Amazing....
So, what is wrong with this camera? As I already mentioned, the AF is quite prehistoric. Other problems include:
* DX iso only, you cannot override it manually.  
* Very Spartan looking viewfinder. Only four LEDS in there. One "P" to show that the camera is in programme mode, one green LED for focus confirmation and one red LED to show that you are working with slow speeds. There is one more that light's on when the flash is ready. No idea with what speeds or apertures you are working with. You need to check the LCD display.
* The winder is soooo noisy, the noisiest of all cameras I have ever tested. You really need to hear it to believe it!
* There is centre weighted metering only, quite old fashioned but I don't mind that much as I always get good exposures even by guestimating the exposure with my Leica.
Some of those issues were addressed with the 230-AF model, which led to better sales although Yashica was pretty bad in pricing it's cameras and marketing them. Out of the four models produced by Yashica (200-AF, 230-AF, 270-AF and 300AF) the 230-AF is the most common camera found in the second hand market while the 300-AF appears to be the most sought after.
Of course there are not only negative things with this camera. There are good ones also, some of these include:
* Excellent build quality, once you pick it up, you understand that it can take a couple of  good  kicks and still work fine!
* Very sensitive and responsive AF button. It reminds me a lot the AGFA Optima series, you touch it and it gives a meter reading, press it slightly and it tries to focus.
* The camera requires the quite expensive 2CR5 batteries to work Or 4 AAA batteries that you can buy 12 for a pound!! How fantastic is that!
* (Very Subjective Opinion) I love this mid-80's sharp corners / Robocop like designs on cameras (!)
This camera has also a couple of features I don't really care for, mostly the "Trap-AF" and the AF-lock button next to the pentaprism. The "Trap-AF" is a AF mode where the camera focuses on a distance and when something enters the frame, it trips the shutter. It is poorly implemented in this model (I don't know how it works on later ones) as you need to focus manually and keep the shutter button pressed all the time (or use a release cable). Not my cup of tea....
A thing that makes me laugh is the way some functions are described in the manual. The AF-Lock button "locks instantly" the AF or the metering system takes "beautifully exposed" pictures or the camera has a "centralised information system" (that's the LCD for you and me). 
 

This camera is such a close copy of the Minolta 7000 that you can even find a "reset button" (P) just like in all Minolta's, while the Yashinon 50 f/1.8 comes with an integrated lens hood, something that I've seen only on the Minolta 50 f/1.7. But although the 200-AF might not have influenced the history of photography, it has something that will make it a better camera than the 7000 in the long run. The Yashica used the good old gears and pins to activate the aperture while the 7000 uses a set of magnets that eventually get de-magnetised and renders the camera inoperative. In simple words, in 10 years your 200-AF will probably work fine while the 7000 will be a paperweight.  

My copy came in such a bad state that it required immediately some TLC. The strap lugs where rusted and there was a significant amount of fungus on the lens. I sanded the rust and painted it over and I took the front element apart and cleaned the mould. There is only a tiny bit left on the back element of the lens but it is impossible to unscrew the four screws on the back. It is a tiny bit though and it is not going to affect the picture. Batteries had leaked too and I had to clean the battery adaptor with vinegar. Inside the film chamber I found some soil that make me wonder whether this camera was given to a child to play with. Thankfully the shutter blades are clean and work with no problem.


Conclusion
What is it that I like in this camera? I really don't know. Having used other, newer cameras, this is a Flintstone of a camera, it is extremely noisy and you cannot help noticing it's frustration when trying to focus. Ergonomically, this camera is not doing any better either; push-pull buttons, AF-Lock on an odd place, no info on the viewfinder... My mind says to ditch it, I've got loads of better cameras but my heart says to keep it. I got good pictures out of the first film I shot and I was thinking to shoot a couple more in order to get used to the interface. The Yashinon is a close copy of the Minolta 50 f/1.7 and performs very nicely, it is cheap to maintain (for a pound of batteries I can shoot almost 60 films), I like it's retro look and I always wanted to have a Yashica camera.  
I think what is important with this camera is to realise what it is suitable for. Is it for fast action photography? Obviously not. Low light photography? Again no. Street photography? Hmmm... maybe, although there are some limitations there. Landscape and portraiture photography? Sure, why not? A deciding factor when you find this camera in a shop/car boot sale/internet is of course money. For body only i would not pay anything more than £10 maximum (you can get a Nikon F-50 for £15). With the cheap zoom lens i wouldn't pay more than £15 and with the standards 28 f/2.8 or 50f/1.8 not more than £30. Actually pay £30 if you really really love this camera as you can find newer models much cheaper.
Watch this space for more info, I will update it once I have shot more films with it and let you know how it is to use this camera in the long term.

 
(Update 8/5/2012)
A friend from rangefinderforum, wrote in to clarify some of the things i wrote above.
Thanks btcg, I am posting your comment.

I came to conclusion 230AF were released before 200AF, can not prove it right now, so take it with a grain of salt - as a food for thoughts.

AAA cells for 200AF isn't such a heaven's gift - this cells are of much less capacity than double lithium cell which also never leaks like AA and AAA's. Yet lithium cell goes strong until it's empty not having mid-life weakness. But if you like to go through sets of AAA's for some reasons it's possible to use battery holder from 200AF on 230AF.


For low light focusing there's some remedy - you know, Yashica 250AF TTL flash has AF assist light so with some bounce it's useful tool. Or use SCA adapter with integrated AF light which allows to have advantage of AF assist light without actually firing flash. This only works for 230AF as 200AF doesn't support TTL flash. In my opinion 200AF isn't worth bothering with as 230AF isn't expensive camera. Not only because of TTL. Well, 200AF were choice back then because of price diff.


And thanks for clarifying relation to Minolta, I've seen some notes on similarity of lens mounts but not so on bodies!
Read more

Canon Datematic

This cute little Canon was literally landed on my hands when a senior couple donated it to me to use it. It came in a pristine condition together with an original canon lens hood, canon skylight filter (!), a speedlite flash and a cable release. Going through the boxes, i also found the original receipt for the flash (£9.99), hood and cable release (£9.86) but not for the camera. Everything was bought on the 18/8/1977. It even had the original 1.35V mercury batteries in which were actually working fine after all these years.

Canon describes this camera as "A camera for the masses" and the biggest selling point was the date printing feature which goes up to 1983, so i am not going to bother with it. The camera operates with two 1.4V mercury batteries which are long banned. I am using two SR44 together with some silver foil to make up for the difference in size. I did not see any difference in exposure due to voltage difference, for those seeking the perfect exposure rate your ISO 400 as 320 or get a Canon EOS. The tricky bit with this camera is the fact that the light meter is always on and drains the battery. Always remember to keep the lens cup on when you do not use it. The foamy light seals had deteriorated and looked like sticky tar. I've replaced them with self-adhesive black felt and it is ready to go. Also the  rangefinder was a bit cloudy so the top cover had to be removed and cleaned. Now it is bright and clean again although the yellow patch is not that vivid any more (but still usable). On the back of the camera, you will see a plastic bit covering a hole in which you'll find a tiny little screw. It is used for calibrating the rangefinder - very useful !

Those who will do a bit of search on the internet, they will find out that this camera has the same lens with the older Canonet 28, a 40mm f/2.8. Actually this info is wrong. The two cameras have different lenses. The Canonet 28 has a 40mm f/2.8 Tessar, 4 elements in 3 groups while the Datematic has a 40mm f/2.8 sonnar type with 5 elements in 4 groups. The lens performs really (really) well, actually as good as the Industar 61although I am not sure how it handles flare which is not a problem in my case as i am using the lens hood. In any case, I think this is an underrated lens and performs really well.


Conclusion

I really like this little Canon. It performs very well and looks cool with the lens hood. The only problem is that auto-exposure can be very limiting but anyway Canon produced this camera having probably Konica C35 in mind (maybe?). If you like fully auto compact rangefinders these cameras are going dead cheap on the internet and they are very good alternatives to other well sought out and usually very expensive Konicas/Minoltas etc...
Read more

Minolta Dynax 9xi

I will tell you right from the start. This is one of the best (if not the best) camera I've ever laid my hands on. It's fast, it's well build and the exposure and focus is always spot on. This is a pro camera - no doubt about it - it's heavy and I dare to say it has the best design I've ever seen.
This camera was meant to compete with the likes of Nikon F4 or the Canon EOS-1but unfortunately it did not do so well. There are plenty of theories out there as to why this happened and I am going to stir in one more. Some say that it was the lack of a build in flash that cost Minolta good sales but this is certainly not the case as neither F4 or the EOS-1 had one. Another very popular theory says that the 9xi didn't do so well was due to it's awkward user interface - and that is true to some point but the EOS-1 had a similar interface, with most functions hidden under a compartment door and so did the Pentax Z-1p which sold well actually. And let's not forget that 7xi had the same interface which also sold well. My view is that what actually lead to the 9xi's poor sales had to do with Minolta's selling strategy. I mean, back in 1991 the 9xi was $800 more expensive than the 7xi having the same AF and metering module but at the same time less features. A few months later Canon released the EOS-5 and Nikon the F-90 which made the 9xi look outdated in a sense. So minolta had to respond to this by releasing the 700si which was marketed as the more advanced Minolta up to date and it was very favourably priced too, leading to better sales than it's bigger sibling. By 1994 Canon introduced the EOS-1N and by 1996 Nikon released the F-5 which meant that minolta was already on the drawing board for the next 9-series.

But this of course doesn't mean a thing. The 9xi is a fantastic tool even by today's standards.The body is made out of glass fibre-reinforced polycarbonate, with the bottom part and the mirror box being made of zinc and die-cast stainless steel. The lens mount is made out of oil-impregnated sintered stainless steel to reduce friction and a UV-hardened polymer covers areas of Dynax 9xi's outermost surface. And innovations do not stop there. The most important feature of this camera is of course the shutter - and forget about the crappy 1/12.000 sec high speed - you cannot use it anyway because of the reciprocity error occurring above 1/10.000 sec. What is more important is the complete lack of vibrations due to the low weight of the shutter blades and the shortest black-out time (with speeds above 1/60) I've ever experienced - the viewfinder is not blacking out almost at all. I've taken pics with 1/10 (at 28mm) and the results are more than acceptable. How is that done? Well, in order to reach the speed of 1/12.000 sec you need a super-light shutter that can accelerate and stop with minimal vibrations. This is done by replacing 8 out of the 10 shutter blades with carbon-fibre reinforced epoxy material. According to Minolta "this strong light-weight material allows the blades to withstand the force of repeated firing at high speeds and reduces vibration. And an extremely efficient, compact core-less motor provides the high torque and high speed needed to cock the shutter and return the mirror rapidly between exposures. This enables 9xi's AF system to resume tracking sooner after an exposure is made". And this brings us to another great feature of this camera. The 4.5 frames per second motordrive. This might not sound impressive - EOS 10 had already 5 frames/sec and the F-4s had 5.3. But these speeds were able on focus priority mode, on continuous focusing the speed drops below 3.5 frames per second on both EOS-10 and F-4s (and EOS-5 too) while the 9xi is still able to shoot with a whooping 4.5 frames per second. And this is why there is so short black-out time with this camera, the mirror mechanism is designed to return faster than other cameras.

So what's the catch? The user interface. There is nothing sort of obvious on this camera - you really need to give the manual a couple of good reads. Most of the important camera functions are controlled by the FUNC button and the two dials. There are also some buttons hidden away behind a door compartment a-la EOS-1 (Rewind, quick button (more later), self timer/drive, ISO, Expansion Card). So, how does it work? If you turn the front control dial without pressing the Func button you gain access to shutter speeds in P mode (called Ps), if you turn the rear dial you change in P mode (called Pa). If you press once the Func button and you turn the front dial you change the exposure mode (aperture/speed priotrity), turn the rear dial and you change the exposure compensation. You press the Func button twice and with the front dial you change the AF spots, with the rear the metering mode. Once you do it a couple of times you get used to it and it is always displayed on the panel and the viewfinder but if it is the first time you pick up the camera, you'll probably spend hours trying to switch to A-mode. Things get better once you start using the Quick button, that is a button that you can assign a function to (metering, bracketing, AF spots etc..). I have assigned the AF spots and makes my life so much easier.
Another great feature that is hidden away is the release priority. The camera come on focus priority (the camera will not take a picture until it focuses first). To switch to release priority turn off the camera, open the compartment door and while pressing the self timer button you switch one the camera. Yea... you really need to read the manual....

The viewfinder on the 9xi is a bit darker than other cameras and that is because of a transparent LCD panel that projects information on the viewfinder, such as Func properties, AF area (changes according to the number of sensors you've selected and the orientation of the camera) but it is not a big deal, it is still bright enough and crisp.

And now a few things about the AF. When released, the 9xi was supposed to be the fasted camera in the world. But the next generation cameras (e.g. EOS-5) focused faster with USM lenses than the 9xi. You will find many comments on the internet about 9xi focusing slowly (or not at all). I have tested the 9xi along with the Dynax 5 and I really strangle to see any difference in good light. Even more, the Dynax 5 might start hunting due to the 7 sensors (see my complain on the EOS-300v) while the 9xi with fewer sensors focuses faster and without problems. Where I do see some improvement is in low light conditions where there is less hunting from the Dynax 5 than the 9xi. Anyway, definitely not up there with the EOS series but I cannot complain either - it is better than the EOS-10 if you ask me. Long story, short. Very good AF even by today's standards.

(* Update 24/8/11)
Just to clarify something. AF speed depends greatly on the lens you are using. With the 28-100 f/3.5-5.6 from the Dynax 5, the camera focuses almost as fast as the 5. The problem is with the old 28-80 f/4-5.6 which is slooooow... If you are going to get the 9xi, get it with a lens from the xi-series that was sold with (or newer).


The 9xi does not support custom functions without the silly expansion cards. And what is more annoying, these functions are on the camera, not on the card, the card acts as a key that gives access to these functions. That was a great way for Minolta to milk the cows (consumers to you and me), especially if you think that Canon had been offering custom functions since the first EOS-1.
The 9xi was one of the first cameras which used the so called "fuzzy logic", that is computer programming to understand what subject you are photographing and adjust exposure. It works great but the problem is that it is quite common that sometimes the program freezes - a "help" is being displayed on the panel and you have to switch off and then back on the camera (reboot).
One last thing, the 9xi is sealed against dust and moisture making the camera the most weather-sealed minolta ever produced.

What i would like to see in this camera? The custom functions being on the camera rather on the custom function card. I would love to be able to leave the film lead off the canister or to be able to switch off the eye start feature.


Conclusion

With the exception of the expansion cards, Minolta did not cut corners with this camera. It is a pro tool that unfortunately did not sell as it should. It goes for around £80 in good condition, expect to pay around £120 for one in excellent condition. Money well spend if you ask me, this is a fantastic camera and worth every penny. Consider it one of the absolute bargains of the photographic word. I love mine so much that I bought a non-functioning one for £10 just to have spare parts once they start to get scarce.
Highly recommended - shares the top place of my favourite SLRs together with the EOS-5 (and maybe beats it).


(Update 10/3/12)
I've been using the Minolta 9xi for almost 8 months now and my general impressions remain very good.  There are 3 things that came up as issues though.
The first is the AF. As I said previously, there is no point in getting this camera with an old lens. My 28-80 f/4-5.6 is so slow and hunts all the time that eventually compromises the camera's performance. I am after a nice 50 f/1.7 but they seem to be a bit on the expensive side. A good friend was kind enough to let me use his for a while - the viewfinder was so much brighter and the AF speed was as fast as EOS 5's with the EF 50 f/1.8.
Another thing that you might need to consider is getting a custom function expansion card. The eye-start feature consumes so much battery that eventually it will be cheaper for you to buy the card rather than change batteries every 5-6 films. Be careful though, there are many custom function cards from the 7000i/8000i cameras. These WILL NOT WORK! you need the ones that have the "xi" written on them.
The last one - although it's not really an issue- has to do with the camera's interface. Eventually you do get used to it and not only that but you can change between functions just by using your thumb and index fingers only, nothing else. Still, the interface remains complicated though, so many functions are hidden away without you knowing it. Recently I discovered a very useful feature for portrait or landscape photography. It has to do with the use of exposure lock in spot metering mode. Once you take a reading using the exposure lock button and then recompose, you will notice that an exposure graph will appear on the bottom of the viewfinder and show you the difference in exposure between the initial and the final reading. For example, you want to take a picture of landscape - you meter the ground and lock the exposure. If you meter then the sky, the graph will show, for example +2. It means that between the ground and the sky there is 2 stops difference. Great feature but there is just a small mention on the manual and it's not easy to come across.

 (Update 30/4/12)
Another update with a secret feature this time. If you press the P button and switch on the camera at the same time, then next time you will try to focus, the camera will display the sensor that it is focusing with. This useful feature is not in the manual !!!
Read more

Yashica MG-1

I got this camera for a pound. The owner said that she had never used it and i do believe her as this camera seems to be in brand new condition. I have a soft spot in my heart for Yashica rangefinders, my father's camera was a Yashica Minimatic-C which he used to record his life in Australia in the '60s. That camera became my very first toy and therefore my bias towards those cameras. But, what's not to like with these cameras? The fit and finish is excellent and their lenses are beyond any criticism. The MG-1 was marketed as not a professional model, they lacked a parallax correction and a fast lens, but still this model is so well made that you wish your digital slr was so well-made.
Yashica's Electro series is quite straightforward to use. You set the aperture and the camera selects the speed. If with the selected aperture, there is the risk of overexposure, then a red light will light on - if there you are underexposuring then an orange will light on. Not much to say about it really. The shutter is dead-silent, as is always the case with leaf shutters. The camera uses the long discontinued PX32 mercury battery. You can use a PX28A alkaline battery with a little spring as the contemporary batteries are smaller in size.
With all the hype going on about the GSN series, the MG-1 assumed the role of the "poor relative" of the line which is not true. The pictures I got from this camera are very good, the lens performs as well as my Industar-61 i have for my FED and the light meter appears to be accurate, even for a above-the-lens element.



 Conclusion

This is a very good camera. Well made, with a good lens and an accurate light meter. There is no reason to pay the premium for a GSN model, unless you really need the f/1.7. I recomment this camera to anyone who starts with rangefinder cameras and wants to try them out without breaking the bank. As for me, I will soon sell this camera. The only problem is that I have already a Leica and the FED-3, both collectible items and with the FED having the advantage of accepting a series of f/2 lenses. There is nothing wrong with this camera, it's just that i am trying to keep only a few cameras, so I will let the MG-1 go. If you are after a fixed-lens rangefinder, give the Yashica a really good consideration.
Read more

Minolta Dynax 5

Ahh... that's a nice little camera. Many people consider the Dynax 5 a stripped down version of the well sought after 7. And it is, the specifications are quite impressive lacking only in the user interface, lesser build quality and a slower top speed. The AF and the exposure system are the same so expect this camera to deliver the goods time after time.  The AF is fast and confident and the light meter gave me perfectly exposed pictures. But as always there are some things that i would like to be different.
1) The P(anic?) button. It resets everything including the AF points which, in order to select, you need to keep pressed the AF button and at the same time turn the dial. Not very convenient and at times annoying having to do it again.
2) The size of the camera. I usually love small cameras but this one is way too small. I keep pressing the depth of field preview as there is not enough space between the camera's grip and the button.
3) The camera's back door safety feature. If you want to rewind the film mid-way through you need to:
a)Turn the camera to OFF
b)Turn the function dial to ISO
c)While pressing the function dial and the spot-AE buttons, turn the camera on
d) The back door will open.
As you probably have figured out already all the fore mentioned are highly subjective. You might love, for example the small size of the camera but for me I find it difficult to hold it. As I said the AF is quite good, for sure much faster and accurate than the 500si but still I am under the impression that the Canon 300v focuses faster and does not display the occasional hunt that sometimes is evident with the Dynax 5. Having said that, the fit and finish of the Dynax 5 is way better than this of the Canon. As so is the viewfinder - very bright and clean. Of course there are the usual 7 AF spots (multi-AF spots are not my cup of tea -my complains here) which pollute a beautiful bright screen but... hey... you cannot have everything.

Conclusion

This is one beautiful camera. It works great as a point and shoot camera, has many features that are not typical for it's category (top speed of 1/4000 for example) and give perfectly exposed pictures. Do I prefer this camera over the Canon 300v. I am not really sure. Although the fit and finish is much better the 300v with the EF 50/1.8 is a great combination that the little minolta will strangle to beat and unfortunately i am not willing to pay a £100 premium to get a 50 f/1.7 for the Minolta. So it is only for practical reasons that I will keep the Canon and propably part with the Dynax 5. But the Dynax 5 is an impressive camera, consider it a bargain if you find it for anything less than £40.


[Aftermath]

I have since sold this camera. I based this review on a film of Tri-X shot last summer. Last week i developed two more Kodak gold 200 films that i shot with this camera and the results are far from perfect. In most of the pictures there is an obvious blur due to camera shake. Obviously the small size and light weight resulted in shake during exposure. Here are a couple of the test shots:

This is something to consider. I never had this problem with any of the EOS 5/ Dynax 9xi / EOS 300v. Other than that, a great camera.

Read more

Canon EOS 300V

Here is the Canon EOS 300V, a camera I bought to replace the Minolta 500si as a lightweight SLR which I could mount a 50 f/1.8 on.The design of this camera will surprise the Canon users as it employs a different user interface. I have no idea why canon wanted to change a successful recipe, not that it is difficult to get used to the new one, but i just wonder. If you ask me, this is an ugly camera and not only that but the fit and finish are not the best. I think it is made in Korea rather than the good old "Made in Japan" ones - but, hey, there are some good news. The camera is the smallest SLR I've ever seen,with the EF 50 f/1.8 it feels like an oversized compact rather than an SLR. And it is one of the lightest too, 365gr body only (* correction: No it isn't. The minolta Dynax 5 is definitely smaller and lighter. Full review coming soon). Canon claims that the 300V has the fastest autofocus on it's category, I think that this is half the truth but we'll return to it later. The camera has all sort of automation you could imagine, pretty much everything that the modern SLRs have spoiled us with. It also has a nice big LCD display on the back, which is backlit, a nice feature if you ask me.The motor-drive is not the fastest in the world but 2.5 fps is a typical for this category. Other interesting features include a 7 points AF system and a 35 zone metering system linked to the AF points - both taken from the more professional EOS 30(V) models. Now, the same AF and metering system have been implemented on the digital 10D that I happen to own and used for few years so I am quite familiar with their performance.

[Complain Mode ON]

(Highly subjective opinion)
Is it only me who thinks that this "multi-point" AF spot is a waste of time? It rarely works as it should and on 99% of the times I end up selecting the central AF point which is accurate. The only exception to this is the EOS 5 which appears to be accurate but has only 5 AF points anyway. In the 300V, Minolta Dynax 5, Canon EOS 10 and the EOS 50, it  just doesn't work as it should, most of the times it focuses on a wrong AF point or on the best of cases it just adds to the lens hunting for focus. With all the aforementioned cameras when all sensors are activated, there is a high probability to focus on a AF spot that you don't want to. I have a couple of shots taken in a church in which the AF completely failed to focus. I had to switch to the middle focusing point to have the camera focus. [Update 22/9/11: And it didn't focus accurately either. The solution of the problem lies in the manual. The AF is working down to EV 1, not EV 0 as the EOS 5 making it difficult to focus in the low light inside the church. No idea why canon went for this option, EV 0 sensors are been used since the time of EOS 10...]

Canon claims that the 300V has the fastest AF in it's category, it is true, if you are using the central AF point only.

[Complain Mode OFF]

With the 300V you cannot select a different way of light metering. It is multi-BASIS (35 zones) all the time except from when you use the exposure lock (partial) or when you switch to full manual (centre weighted). The Multi-Basis system works well, although i am under the impression that it over exposes slightly - probably has to do with the way the exposure is biased towards the AF-point it focuses on. No big deal with modern films but keep it in mind. Also, did I say that the viewfinder is nothing special? Yes it is, nice and bright with the EF 50 f/1.8 but dark with the kit zoom lens.


Conclusion
The Canon 300V has become my favourite travel-abroad-with-light-camera camera.I have been using this camera for quite some time now and on a day to day basis, it does everything you ask it to do fast and reliably. It is small and takes good pictures and it definitely feels more responsive than the out-dated Minolta 500si. So if you are a Canon user, the 300V is one of the best options out there. If you are looking for a new camera and you are not that brand loyal, then competition gets harder for the little Canon. I highly recommend the 300V for a back up canon slr but I have to admit that the tiny Dynax 5 that has just landed on my hands has given me a mighty good first impression. Let's see how those two compare.
Read more

Yashica T-3

Ahh... at last, the elusive T-3, the predecessor of one of the most sought after cameras on the net, the T-4. This is a car-boot-sale find, an old lady sold it to me and apologised for the cracked LCD panel which works well though. It came loaded with film so all i had to do is take the camera out and start shooting.
The T-3 is a noticeable bigger camera than the T-4. It is weather-proof and of course the centre of attention is the 35mm f/2.8 Carl Zeiss lens.There is a rumour going on the internet that the lens is the same on both the T-3 and the T-4 but on the T-4 it was limited to open up to f/3.5 because it is too soft at f/2.8. That is not correct, these are two different lenses. The one on the T-3 is half a stop faster and the 4 elements are spread in 4 groups rather than 3 in the T-4. Other features include the New Angle Scope which is actually a waist level finder for hip-level shots. I cannot say that i found it terribly useful but i read that there are many people that do. Something interesting that i don't remember seeing it on the T-4, is the continuous shooting mode , where the camera continues to focus as long as you hold the shutter button down and it will take the pic at any time. Nice feature if you ask me.

Now, what about the picture quality. Mixed emotions. The pictures are nice and sharp but when i scan them on high resolution (2400 dpi) and check them on 100% zoom, it seems that it does not record that much detail as I though it would. It is in the Olympus Stylus category but not as good as the T-4, the Nikon L35AF or the DL SuperMini. Maybe I was expecting too much right from the start - being a T-series and carring a Zeiss lens. The pictures are good but as I said you can see the crispiness on pictures taken with the L35AF or the SuperMini but I can't see that with the T-3. Maybe it's my sample... i don't know. I've joined a discussion on a website about the T-3. It seems that some of the owners prefer to use the T-3 with colour film and the T-4 with b&w. I used both on mine, the colour one have a specific "brownish" hue on it, not sure why, I would expect the minilab to have corrected that. It is quite pleasing effect though, it gives a feeling of vintage on the pictures. B&w tones are fine, maybe a bit soft when there is not much light available (aperture close to 2,8 maybe?).

Note something interesting. The motordrive is a bit on the loud side but, just like the Nikon L35AF when you press the shutter button it takes the picture but it doesn't advance the film unless you release it. In other words, take the picture, move away, release the button and you have a stealth/silent camera. Please note that the camera uses one 2CR5 battery, a bit expensive and not so easy to find.

Conclusion

This is a nice camera. Not quite in the same league as the cameras fore mentioned but still a very good one. At the moment they tend to go cheap on the internet but this might change soon with all the hype going on about Yashica's T-series. They are well made cameras, weatherproof, maybe a bit chunky for my liking but they produce nice pictures and the f/2.8 is always a bonus. The only problem with this camera is that it does not stand out from the crowd as it is a good performer in every department but it does not really shine in any. Now, i am sure that there will be at least one person who will write and say that his T-3 takes better pictures than his T-4 or L35AF or the little Fuji and he might be right - I am writing about the samples I 've got in my hands. But at this point I do feel that everything that Yashica did with the T-4 is a major improvement over the T-3. As with all cameras, if you find it cheap, give it a go - you might be surprised.
Read more

FED-3 (50 years Russian Revolution Anniversary)

I got this camera from one of my wife's friends, who very kindly volunteered to give me her camera once she learned that I use old film cameras. Much to my amazement, my wife returned home holding a FED-3 type b but a model that commemorates the 50 years of the Russian Revolution. FED was never good at keeping track of their serial numbers unlike Germans but with the anniversary models, FED kept a basic numbering system, mainly starting with 67xxxxxxx (1917+50=1967) and they did the same with the lens's too. I managed to find some more info on ussrphoto.com. "Although soviet camera industry produced a lot of commemorative cameras, only very few Fed's were among them. That's why an anniversary Feds becoming very scarce nowadays. To commemorate the "Great October - 50" Fed issued three cameras: Fed-3b, Fed-4b and Fed-11 Atlas with special engravings. The Atlas is very uncommon.
Although mass-market Fed cameras have no date prefix in their serial numbers, the commemorative Fed-3b has special serials both on camera body and Industar-61 lens.This camera was also released, without engraving, in a special commemoration box. [...] these cameras also had the prefix 67 to the serial number.
"

Other than that, the FED-3 is pretty similar to the FED-4 I used to have. Having to choose between the two, I would go for the 3. It is a bit less bulky (no lightmeter) and it looks prettier to my humble opinion. The lens (Industar-61) suffers from the usual dry lubricants and there are plenty cleaning marks - to the point that i am thinking to remove the coating. Everything else seems to be working just fine.

Update: I might be spreading rumors now but since i read it, I thought it will be a good idea to record it also. Back in the early 90's a businessman in America had this great idea to start importing FSU cameras, mostly FED's and Zorki's - think of something like the forerunner of FEDKA. He was buying the cameras in bulks and the idea was that if the cameras required a CLA then he wouldn't sell them as the price of a CLA would not worth it. Surprisingly most of the cameras which needed to be CLA'ed were the FED-2 's and the Zorki 4(K), cameras that are very sough after today. The ones that did not needed CLA were the FED-3 (both a and b models) and the Zorki 6. He does not mention anything about Kievs so I would imagine that he did not import them at that time. Still, an interesting opinion to consider even if your opinion varies.


Conclusion

Everything I wrote for the FED-4 applies to the FED-3 too. I like the 3 better, looks nicer, feels less bulky and it is a special anniversary model. It definately stays with me, big thanks to Victoria for giving me this camera, I promise that it is going to be used alongside the Leica, Zenit and Canon.
Read more

Canon EOS 10 (s)

Canon EOS 10 /10S

"Good while it lasted". Or "A midsummer night's dream". Or a fantastic camera that went wrong. The EOS 10/10S was a groundbreaking camera at its time, really a step ahead from competitors, offering superior AF speed / accuracy and overall performance that only cameras costing twice the money (mainly Minolta 9Xi) could offer.But unfortunately those great cameras suffered from a major drawback, a shutter susceptible to malfunction due to the shutter bump foam getting deteriorating and eventually seeping through the shutter blades in the form of a tar-like oil, causing a "lazy shutter", i.e. a sticky shutter. This affects the 6XX / 10(s) / 100 EOS camera series, the bumper was replaced with a rubber one on the EOS 5 but it seems that in the case of 10/10s the problem is more prominent. You can actually bet that at some point the camera will suffer from a lazy shutter. You can always open the back and try to remove it yourself (be very careful) or give it in for an expensive repair and then you have a fantastic camera that will work reliably and take wonderful pictures. Ohh.. that is when you get used to some annoying user-interface buttons (AF, -/+, cf) that are small and difficult to press plus the lack of the rear control wheel on the back, introduced on the latter EOS 100 model. It is also much lighter than it's predecessor by almost 100 gr (EOS 10 - 580gr / EOS 630 - 670gr). Canon made this turn on the way they constructed the cameras from then on, a more polycarbonate approach to construction, saving the heavy materials for the EOS 1 series. If you are one of those guys who likes bashing cameras on the pavements, then get a Nikon. I take good care of my cameras so I stick with Canon.

I got my camera in a car boot sale, it was laying in a box with digital cameras. Mine seems to have had more than just a sticky shutter. I dropped a fresh battery in and cleaned the shutter blades but when i switched the camera  on, it completely drained my battery. Grrrr.... a 2CR5 battery costs almost £5. I took the top and bottom off and there seemed to have been some water inside the camera. Probably the camera had been laying in water or something. I left it on the windowsill to dry and now it seems to be working fine again. The camera fits quite well in the hand, it is the same width and depth but noticeably shorter than the EOS 5. It also offered a bar code reading function, something like Minolta's expansion cards but more practical, since everything was stored in the camera. Never bothered with that feature so I might be wrong. My impression is that the miror is much smoother, less vibrations and shorter black out time than the EOS 5 but i might be also wrong. The 8-zone metering system is accurate as you would expect it to be. Viewfinder nice and bright.

Conclusion

The EOS 10(s) is one of those few cameras that I really like a lot but unfortunately cannot recommend buying. Most of them suffer already from sticky shutters and if they don't, they soon will. Which is such a shame really because this is a great camera to have. Fast AF, 5 frames per second motor drive, accurate light meter and silent operation are just some of the features of the camera but they are all overshadowed by the sticky shutter problem. And, ok, you might think, "i can always clean it by myself" but then you wonder if it isn't a better idea to give £10- £20 more and get an EOS 50 or an EOS 5 that do not suffer from it and have a better user interface. If you get one like I did (for a couple of quids), go ahead and you've got a great camera. But don't pay £30 to buy it, pay £10 more and get a EOS 50 or £20 more and get an EOS 5 which will serve you well for the years to come.
Read more

Olympus Stylus Infinity (Mju-1 / μ-1)

Olympus always knew how to make compact cameras that you carry with you all the time. Do you remember the OM series? Or maybe the legendary XA ? This one was the next step, the Mju-1 in Europe (Stylus infinity in America), is a nice little compact with sexy sleek lines that can fit into your shirt pocket. It was followed by the Mju-II, an improved version with a 35 f/2.8 lens and a spot meter and then there were numerous version with Zoom lenses and so on..

Olympus got it right straight from the start with this camera. It had everything the amateurs wanted and it was taking very good pictures. There are the usual flash modes but unfortunately there is no way to disable permanently the flash (once you shut the camera, it resets to default - Auto). Good news though: the fill in flash does not pop up in almost every occasion like the Fuji does. In the little Fuji i need to remember to turn it off every time i switch on the camera, with the olympus you might get away with it. I tend to prefer this camera's ergonomics over the next generation's one (the Stylus Epic), it is still quite small but i have a better grip. Still, i prefer the Fujifilm DL Super Mini, that although smaller, it's a bit chunkier to hold. The camera is made out of plastic but it does not give you the impression of being flimsy. In fact it has a better fit and finish than the more expensive Yashica.
The lens is a beautiful triplet design (3 elements in 3 groups), not quite as contrasty as the T4's tessar or Nikon's Sonnar or the fantastic Fujinon, but still a very capable performer. Actually, my mju-1 produces a somehow lower contrast pictures which gives the impression of being less sharp. When i boost the contrast on photoshop, the pictures do appear much better. 
Certainly we can't complain about the picture quality - when you boost the contrast the picture really comes to life.
There are not much i can say about this camera really. There are numerous webpages out there that praise this little camera and every bit they say is true. I would prefer this camera every time over the much more expensive Yashica T4 but if money is not an issue or they are similarly priced then go for the T4.
 
Conclusion
 
Is this a fantastic camera? Yes, it definitely is. Does it deserve the (highly subjective) "Pan's Ultimate Point-n-Shoot camera"? No but it is a near miss. It has everything you want, small size, a wonderful lens, good build quality but having tested the little Fuji, it just leaves me nor hot or cold. Of course it is not fair to compare the Fuji with the Olympus, the Fuji was a much more expensive camera at it's time. It is definitely a keeper though, the 35mm focal length is much easier for me to use and it will complement the little Fuji just fine. If you come across this little jem, don't walk away. It has a lot going on to give more expensive cameras, a run for their money.
Read more

Fujifilm DL Super Mini



I came across the DL super mini while i was going through a box of junk cameras on a car boot sale. It was in pretty bad condition, dirty with a small nick on the lens cover and loads of dust on the lens and the viewfinder. I asked the seller how much he wanted for it and he told me that he "has no idea what it is but i can have it for a couple of quids".
The Fuji DL SuperMini is Fujifilm's largely failed attempt to sit between the Hi-Class pocket cameras (Minolta TC-1, Nikon 28Ti, Ricoh GR-1) and the consumer range of advanced compacts (i.e Olympus Stylus Epic) and that failure is mainly due to two reasons. First of all, it reached the UK market with a delay of 1,5 year of it's release and second because of poor marketing which meant that after one year it was replaced by the DL SuperMini Zoom. It enjoyed better reception in the Japanese market (under the name Tiara) and there is an updated model called Tiara II, differing in some internal programing and an integrated hand strap. This was an expensive camera at it's time and there was even a special edition package  - a wooden display case with a quality certificate and a photo-book. Back in the mid 90's it won the "TIPA 1995-1996 Best Compact Camera" award.

The SuperMini is a tiny little camera measuring 99.8 X 60 X 31.5 mm and weighing only 153 grams. It is equipped with a Fujinon EBC 28mm f/3.5. Unfortunately I wasn't able to trace a manual but according to a Japanese web page "both groups 4 aspherical 4" (*cheap google translation*) which to my understanding means "4 elements (two of which aspherical) in 4 groups" - please correct me if wrong. Shutter speeds 1/2 to 1/800 sec. Four focusing modes (we'll come back to this later) and nice aluminum body. There are the usual flash modes ( Auto, red-eye reduction, flash off, backlight compensation, Night Portrait) and the usual annoyance that comes with them, mainly the resetting back into "auto" each time you switch off the camera. The camera has a panorama switch which masks part of the negative and a sensor right below the flash that warns you if your finger is in front of the flash. An interesting thing are the four different focusing modes : AF, Infinity mode, manual focus (you set the camera focusing distance manually from 0.35 meters to 10 meters and infinity) and Snap mode. This Snap mode will focus between 1.5 and 3 meters and the camera will choose a small aperture to throw everything in sharp focus. With a 28 mm lens, in theory, with f/5.6 you can have everything in focus between 1.83m to 8.41m. This makes the camera fairly swift to take pictures with without having to wait for the AF. Good idea and it works.

Another cool feature of this camera is the drop in loading. You just pull the film lead out and you drop it inside the camera. Then what happens is, the camera removes all the film from the canister and each picture you take it winds it back in the film canister. Great idea, even if the camera back opens, all your pictures you've taken are safe in the canister.

The SuperMini is the tiniest compact camera I've ever handled. It is very often nick-named "The sardine tin" due to it's rectangular design and the metal body. Smaller than the Olympus Stylus Infinity and better build, it's made to take a couple of good kicks and the aluminum body hides scratches very well. It is even smaller (and again better build) than the Stylus Epic.



Now, how good is the lens? Every well seasoned photographer from the 60's - 70's will swear by the performance of the Fujinon lenses which together with Konica's Hexanons are some of the underrated diamonds of the photographic world. This little lens does live up to it's name. It is sharp and contrasty, recording more detail than my crappy scanner can resolve.


 On a very popular website I've read a couple of complaints about the lens vignetting too much. I'm not so sure about it, i think the vignetting it exhibits is due to the leaf shutter design (more here) and not so much on the lens itself. Truth is i need to run more films through it but it is definitely not as prominent as XA2's. A bit of barrel distortion is present as you would expect it. The lens is supposed to be one of the main sale points of this camera and it does resolve a great deal of detail although it suffers occasionaly from flare if it is turned towards bright sun (anyway, which lens doesn't?). All in all, this is a very nice lens, with a purple/green coating.


Conclusion

The Fuji DL SuperMini has a charm you cannot resist. It is a camera that grows in you. My only complain is the 28mm lens, a focal length that I find difficult to work with as I prefer to leave some space between myself and my subject. Still I like the DL SuperMini a lot. The tiny size makes me choosing it every time over the L35AF (or the Ricoh TF-900D - Review coming soon) and it is much better build than the T4. The lens performs as good as it's Carl Zeiss counterpart. I cannot see any difference in the pictures taken from both cameras, except maybe the Fujinon might be lugging behind only in the most contrasty scenes when faced with strong sunlight but it comes with much better build quality than the T4 and less vignietting and weight than the L35AF.  I am still waiting for the test film from the Olympus Stylus Infinity but as things are at the moment, the DL SuperMini wins my (highly subjective) "Pan's Ultimate Point-n-Shoot camera".

Update: I developed another film taken with the DL Super mini, this time in fresh developer and the results were amazing.I used ID-11 diluted 1:1 for more contrast and the pictures are sharp and contrasty, definately better than the T4.

Read more

Nikon L35AF


The L35AF was Nikon's first AF camera. This camera has a cult following in photography forums but honestly after being disappointed with my Olympus XA2 i though i should hold my breath until i got my films back from developing. There are something like 3-4 models which look quite similar to this one but without the 35mm f/2.8 Nikon lens which is supposed to be a special piece of glass. You can find here a page with the history of this lens, it is a sonar design semi wide angled and very nicely coated. If you are into lens designing (and not only) check this page out. 

By the moment you pick this camera up, you can understand that it is a well build camera. A bit heavy but it balances nicely into your hands, it has a nice heft to it. Back in the 80's it was an expensive camera to buy and the main selling point was of course the lens. What Nikon should have thought better are the ergonomics. This might sound weird since the L35AF has only one button but try to take a picture in low light by holding the flash down with your finger (this is the way to disable flash) and pull the little switch next to the lens (exposure compensation) at the same time. Another thing is the film rewind. You need to read the manual first as the camera does not rewind the film automatically after the last frame. Instead it just....does nothing. I was pressing the shutter button thinking that the batteries are dead. You have to figure it out or read the manual. 

The main complain of the people who are using this camera is the noisy motor drive.  This it true to some extend but there is a way to work around this problem. The camera will take the picture when you press the button but it will not advance to the next frame until you release it. So what i do is actually take a picture and do not release the button until i have walk away. This makes the Nikon one of the most silent cameras i've own. 

Those who have already read the story behind the L35AF 's lens design will notice that one of the trade offs for keeping the sharpness up is the light fall off on the corners otherwise known as vignetting. Now, there is a common misconception here as most people don't know that the design of the leaf shutter can produce this light fall off and not the lens itself. A leaf shutter will open from the centre towards the edge and this means that the centre of the picture will receive more exposure in the centre and less at the corners of the frame and thus leading to vignetting. People argue that the L35AF vignettes alot. Not according to my experience, it vignettes as much as the Yashica T4 and certainly less than the Olympus XA2.

From top to bottom: T4 / L35AF / XA2

The camera produces really nice pictures, virtually indistinguishable from the Yashica T4 for the 1/20th of the price.

On of the coolest figures of this camera is the fact that when pressing the shutter button, a needle points towards four icons in the viewfinder in order to indicate the distance in the viewfinder. This is cool, no other camera does that as far as i know (update: The Ricoh TF-900D does it and it is cooler, with backlit icons on the viewfinder). Exposure-wise, i think that it underexposes a bit, next time i will expose my 400 asa as 320 and see how it will perform. 



Conclusion

The Nikon L35AF was given the nickname "Pikaichi" which means "top notch" in Japanese. And truly it is, it is a camera that produces beautiful pictures with a lot of details. I would consider the L35AF as a serious contestant for the tittle of the best point-and-shoot camera, the results are as good as Yashica's T4 and it costs less that 1/10th of the price. For sure within the top 5 of the "camera-in-the-car" list.  
Read more

Minolta Dynax 500si

As always a bit of a history first. In the early '90s when Minolta 9xi took the world by storm, i started thinking that one day I would buy a Minolta. Then the Canon came and I forgot all about it. Some years ago i had the chance to meet a fellow photographer who was carrying a Minolta 700si. We swapped cameras and I was pleasantly surprised by Minolta's quality.It was then when i remember that one day I would like to have one.
Well, the 500si is by no means a 700si but when i saw it, i thought that i had to have it. Now that i gave it a cool off period i think it would be a good idea to write a small review about it.
I've read theothermartintaylor's review about this camera and i would have to agree with it but I think it is a bit better camera than that.The Minolta has a decent AF speed-wise. It cannot compare with Canon's but it is fairly quick although a bit noisy. Sometimes it gives the impression that it's not sure if it has focused - you will hear a "wzzz - wzzz" like it is testing and then it will give the green light. It doesn't take much time but you will notice it. The layout is easy to understand and the chubby grip helps with holding the camera. The Minolta came together with the 28-80 f/4-5.6 which optically is an OK lens but nothing exciting. Dispite the relatively slow lens, the Minolta's viewfinder is nicely bright, a very pleasant surprise if you consider that this camera is a low class one.

So what is wrong with this camera? In my opinion there are 3 things that i find annoying. 
a) First, the plastic lens mount. If you have any plans of putting and expensive and optically better lens, just forget it. The heavier the lens, the more chances you have to end up with the lens coming off your camera while swinging it around.
b) Uses DX settings only. You cannot push / pull the film's sensitivity. That is a serious limitation as i tend to stock my film with 400 ASA films and during summer i tend to rate it as 100ASA.
c) Finally the most distracting feature - or better the lack of it - is the continuous AF. The camera will take the picture ONLY AFTER it focuses and sadly you will find the camera hunting for focus just at the moment you want to take the shot. When doing street photography this is fundamental, you need to be able to take the picture at any given time and the Minolta will not take a pic unless it focuses first. The Canon will take the picture even if focus hasn't been completed although a smaller aperture will be chosen and the depth of field will yield a sharp picture. I am not sure if predictive AF was added to the 500si Super but i think they didn't.
I find the exposure system to be quite accurate. It doesn't have a spot option but to be honest i am satisfied with the accuracy of the honeycomb system. I use negative film anyway but still it gives correct exposes even in difficult lighting conditions. Really, It is a sound camera and if i was given it in the mid '90s i would have been thrilled with it and with the pictures it takes. But having tried other AF cameras i think that there are much better cameras out there that can produce the same nice (or better) results with better ergonomics, better build quality and more features. Some of it's shortcomings - mainly the plastic mount and the addition of a spot meter- were addressed in the next model, the Dynax 500si Super which is virtually the same camera and it is more sought after. 


Conclusion

The Minolta Dynax 500si is a really cute camera. So cute in fact that I find it difficult to persuade myself to sell it. It's one of those cameras that the more you use it, the more it grows in you. It doesn't hide the fact that it was a low level autofocus camera but it does deliver nice, well exposed pictures.
Should you buy one? If you are stepping up from a point-and-shoot camera then definitely yes. If digital photography is all you ever did and you want to give film a try without spending a fortune then this is the camera to go for. If you want to buy a back up body make sure that you get it cheap. I checked a very popular website and they tend to sell for £40 with a lens (September 2010 prices) which i think it is quite steep. Not because it doesn't worth it - far from it - it's just that for an extra £10 you can get a better equipped model from Canon, Nikon or Minolta. Get it for anything less than £30 and you've got yourself a deal.
Read more

Gossen Sixtino 2

Back in the mid-90's i read an article about the importance of light meters in photography. I had no idea how to use them and i was getting very nice results from my Praktica's lightmeter but still i felt like i wanted to have one. And so i did, i bought this little gossen sixtino 2 lightmeter. I went out shooting a slide film on my vacations and when i developed it i was really disappointed with the results. No wonder of course, since i had no idea how to use it in the first place. I threw it in a drawer and kept it there for almost 12 years.
A couple of years ago, when i bought the Zeiss Ikon Nettar, i realized that it wasn't very convenient to carry with me the digital camera just to take some reading so i thought that i could buy a new one since the little Gossen was left in Greece. And i did, i bought the Seconik Microlite from a charity shop which worked well for a year until it started giving erratic readings. I had to call my parents to post me the old gossen.
The Gossen Sixtino 2 is a tiny little light meter that reads both incident and reflective light. It is a selenium light meter so it does not need any battery to operate. When you don't use it, put it in a case as the selenium element will eventually die if it is left in the light.

Measuring reflective light with the Gossen can be a bit tricky.If you point the meter towards the scene it has the tendency to be fooled by the sky and underexpose.












I always tend to point the meter towards the ground which it tend to give more accurate readings.












If you switch the meter on to incident reading it tends to provide very thing negatives. No surprise of course, it is trying to emulate the 18% gray tone. Here is an example of what i mean. The grass is almost the same tone with the gray on the bottom of the picture.












I tend to measure with incident reading and give 1 stop overexposure. I usually get very nice results then.













Conclusion

The Gossen Sixtino 2 is an excellent light meter. It provides both incident and reflective readings. It is small, uses selenium element and it is light enough to always carry it with you. As with all incident light meters, it takes practice but the results will worth it. If you are looking for a light meter don't forget to take a closer look on this one. You might be surprised.
Read more

Praktica BC-1

I really want to like Prakticas. I really do. But it seems that no matter how hard i try, Prakticas don't like me. I'll try to explain that a bit more. But first some history.
In 1992 - if my memory serves me right - i decided that it was about time to buy a camera. I went with my brother on a camera shop and i was trying to bargain a Praktica MTL-5. Eventually I couldn't afford it and i went instead for the much cheaper BMS. I learned the basics with that camera and it served me well for 5 years until its shutter started becoming erratic. The quote for repair was as high as the camera cost me so I decided to save some money for some time and buy another one (I bought the EOS 5 finally).
A couple of years ago, i took my Zenit 12XP to the local repair shop to change the light seals and while i was waiting, i spotted an MTL-3 (or was it a MTL-5?, not sure) and i asked him if i could take a better look. He handed it to me and while i started winding up the shutter and firing on different speeds, the shutter got jammed. It was an embarrassing moment. I left the shop having paid only for the light-seals - he did not charge me for the Praktica.
Three months ago I picked up a Praktica BC-1 in very good condition in a car boot sale for £2, together with the 50 f/1.8 Prakticar and an original Praktica bag. I dropped a fresh battery in and i started taking some pictures. Unfortunately, the shutter gave up on me. Under some circumstances and while on auto mode, the shutter will remain open. I will have to turn the dial to "B" to close the shutter. The battery is new so there must be something wrong with the electronics.
That's what i mean when i say that those cameras don't like me. Maybe I was unlucky with those samples, there are countless Praktica funs that swear on Praktica's reliability but all the Prakticas that I've tried seem to develop problems with the shutter. When they work ok they produce beautiful pictures and the Prakticars are amazing lenses. The 50 f/1.8 is a lovely lens, sharp and with nice bokeh.

The shutter and the mirror are a bit on the loud side but this model comes with a depth preview button and a aperture priority mode. It is also very nice size, smaller than the Zenit and almost half the size of the Canon.








Conclusion

So, what is the conclusion here? I am quite puzzled to be honest. My personal experience says to stay away from Prakticas as all three samples I got (and some I found on car boot sales) developed a problem with the shutter. Personally I would avoid the "B" models and since my Zenit gives me a trouble free service, i don't see the point in buying an MTL or LTL model.
Matt Denton on his website praise some Praktica models and so do the guys in PUGW. My suggestion would be: since all Prakticas sell for as little as £10 - £40, get yourself one and see how it works.
Read more

Canon EOS 5

Back in 1992, I came across one very popular photography magazine which had a review of the brand new Canon EOS 5. It was the time when I was getting obsessed on what camera I should buy (I ended up buying a Praktica) and the canon was the number one on my dream-camera list.
Six years later, my Praktica had suffered a damage beyond repair so I was thinking that it was time to buy a new one. I went into the shop to buy a Nikon F50 and i ended up leaving with a Canon EOS 5 paired with a cheap plastic Sigma 28-80. At that time it cost me one and a half salary to get it but I was thrilled with the prospect of using the eye control focus.
It's been twelve years since then and I think that it is about time to write a short and biased review based on my experience working with this camera.
So I suppose the main question is : How good is it? It is simply amazing, even after 12 years i am still amazed of what this camera can do.
The EOS 5 lived under the shadow of it's own fame, i.e the first camera to offer a ECF. Actually the ECF is the least useful feature of this camera. It even doesn't work as I would like it to. It does not work on portrait and depending on how you look through the viewfinder, it is not always accurate. So I tend to switch it off and let the camera decide automatically. But besides the ECF the camera delivers big time. According to reviews the AF is as fast as the flagship's EOS 1 and focuses accurately and without hesitation. The winder offers 1 frame-per-second, 3 frames-per-second and 5 frames-per-second without any external motordrive. Three different and very accurate lightmeter options including spot metering, 16 custom functions, a very clean layout (once you play with it, you will be able to operate other Canon models with no problem), a continuous (predictive) AF, mirror lockup, silent (extremely silent) rewind and film advance due to coreless motors and belts which operate by friction. The EOS 5 was one of the best Canons AF which could focus in complete darkness without hesitation, something that the EOS 3 and EOS 1(N or V) couldn't (they required external AF assistance from flash units). Top speed of 1/8800 secs and flash synch on 1/250. On aperture priority the shutter becomes completely stepless. Very bright focusing screen . Multiple exposures and auto-bracketing. Depth of field preview just by looking on the square on the top left corner in the viewfinder. The EOS 5 has an excellent reputation among professionals for being a well build camera. It is not weather-sealed buy mine has stand heavy rain without any problems. The EOS 5 was on production for eight years, outliving the production of their flagship EOS 1N by 2 years. Also, the EOS 5 had steady sales even two years after it's successor - the EOS 3 - was on production.
This list could go on and on. But let's turn on the downside of this camera. Does it have any?
Nothing is perfect in this world and of course the EOS 5 isn't too. The biggest problem with this camera is the command dial which tends to break. Sadly enough, Canon never admitted that there was a problem with it (as this would affect the warranty of the camera) but they tried to address it silently by providing redesigned spare parts. There is a rumor that the models built between 1992-1997 had problems with the command dial while the 1998-2000 where ok. This does not seem to be right, mine was made in 1998 and still suffered a broken dial. After i had it repaired, it keeps giving me a trouble free service for ten years now. 
Another thing that I thing that was badly designed is the lock switch on the back of the camera. If you accidentally switch it to "1" then with the slightest turn of the dial on the back you are setting an exposure compensation. You get an indication on the LCD panel and on the viewfinder but if it goes un-noticed you'll probably end up with a over-under exposed film. I overexposed two films because of this, so I would like to see it re-designed somehow. One more thing that i would like to see in thiscamera was increments in exposure by 1/3 stops (as opposed to 1/2 stops). 

There are quite some good resources on the internet about the EOS 5. Here is a article on how find out the production date of your camera and here are some DIY instructions on how to repair the command dial.But unfortunately, I've also come across some reviews  that don't do any justice to the EOS 5. One of them while discussing the accuracy of the matrix meter wrote: "I find Canon's matrix meter to be less intelligent than Nikon's. Bracket, think, and use negative.". That's rubbish, I really have no idea what the reviewer is talking about. I've taken loads of pictures using Velvia 50 and all came out correctly exposed. In the same review the reviewer complains about the inferiority of the viewing system compared to Nikons F801 and F90. I haven't used a F90 but i have used a F801 and the viewfinder on the Canon is much brighter and you can very easily see when the image snaps into focus and when not. Anyway, to get a blurry picture from a wide angle lens you must have done something horribly wrong, the depth of field on those lenses is enough to forgive miscalculations.  


Conclusion

Long story short. This is a great camera. It has it's shortcomings and the command dial can be a nightmare if it breaks. It cost me about £50 in 2000 to have it replaced but i had no problems since then. The Canon EOS 5 is one of the cameras (together with the Leica IIc and the Ikoflex Ib) which I'll not sell. Probably I'll buy a EF 50 f/1.8 to replace the old Sigma 28-70 f/2.8 which starts showing signs of the its age.
It seems to me that the EOS 5 is the ultimate point-and-shoot camera. When i trust myself about exposure and distance calculation, i pick up the Leica IIc. For all the other cases, i'll pick up the Canon.
Read more

FED-4

The old lady who sold me this camera said that it was her daughter's and she hadn't used it at all. I believed her as the camera seems to be in mint condition. The wind lever is so smooth to operate, and the body clean and shinny.This was mostly a compulsive buy, i saw it in good condition and the price she was asking was right, so i said "why not".
It is a really good camera and i wouldn't hesitate to recommend it as a first time rangefinder. The viewfinder is a bit dark but the focusing patch is quite clear to see and easy to operate. A cloth shutter with speed ranges of 1 sec to 1/500 in a bit unusual arrangement. The lens on this camera is a very nice Industar-61, f/2.8 to f/16, coated and very sharp. It also works on my Leica IIc. A nice feature of the Fed-4 is the lack of light seals. It uses the old good Leica drop in loading (* Correction 31/8/2010 - Drop in loading??? I have no idea what i was thinking when i was writing it, the whole back is removable in order to put the film. Still no signs of lightseals thought...*) . Did i say that you can calibrate the rangefinder by yourself? Yes you can, apparently there is a small screw below the screw next to the viewfinder.
These camera came with a selenium meter and because of their vintage, they tend to be inaccurate. True, in my sample it is at least 2 stops off.

I dropped a film in and i got some really nice pictures out of this camera. The lens is sharp and the camera's weight is balancing nicely on my hands. Pity about the crappy film (400CN)










Conclusion


There are not many things to say about this camera really. It must be the LADA of the photographic industry, cheap, heavy and delivering what it has promised to do. Take good pictures. I think it is a decent camera, well made and the Industar-61 is known to be a sharp and contrasty lens. For those who want to switch into rangefinder cameras but don't want to spend a fortune for a Leica, this is the way to go. They will not regret it.
Read more
 

Pan's Film Cameras Design by Insight © 2009